The Watches Silent Reflection of Power and Personality
Industry Season 3 immerses viewers in a chaotic world of high-stakes finance, where ambition, hedonism, and personal destruction collide. Beyond the frantic pace of money, screens, and moral decay, the show’s attention to detail, particularly in its portrayal of replica watches, adds an intriguing layer to its storytelling. Co-creators Mickey Down and Konrad Kay, with their firsthand experience in finance, craft a narrative that’s as much about power plays as it is about the subtle signals sent by the characters’ accessories – especially their watches. 
Crafting Character Through watches
Laura Smith, the show’s costume designer, worked closely with Down and Kay to weave watches into the fabric of the show’s character development. As a watch enthusiast herself, Smith spent considerable time observing how people in London’s financial districts dressed, both during the day and at night. “I wanted to understand how the evolution of wristwatches tells a story,” she says. “Watches, as accessories, provide vital clues about a character’s lifestyle, wealth, and their relationship with time.”
Down and Kay, drawing from their own experiences in the finance world, brought their insights into the characters’ watch choices. “We discussed trends, items that were symbols of success, and those that signified more personal connections,” Smith explains. “A character’s choice of watch often reflects their spending habits and how they wish to be perceived by their peers.”
The Subtlety of Real Wealth
The watches featured in Industry are more than just accessories; they’re symbols of status and identity. Take, for example, Henry, the volatile green energy startup CEO played by Kit Harington. His character’s evolving watch collection – from a flashy Apple Watch to his father’s analog watch – mirrors his journey from a brash newcomer to someone trying to project an air of established wealth. “Henry’s watch story was carefully designed to reflect his character’s development,” Smith notes. “We wanted it to feel authentic to his arc.”
In contrast, the show’s darker characters, like Rishi, the self-destructive banker, wear watches that hint at a more complicated narrative. Rishi’s replica Rolex Sea-Dweller 2001, purchased with his first compensation package, is an emblem of ambition and success – but it also serves as a marker of his eventual decline. The show takes care to ensure these watches are never too overt, reflecting how these characters’ desires are often masked by their outward appearances.
Legacy Swiss Brands and Unconventional Choices
While Industry is set in the world of high finance, some of the show’s watch choices deliberately subvert expectations. Major Swiss watch brands, traditionally associated with luxury, were initially hesitant to be associated with characters indulging in reckless behavior, such as drinking and drug use. As Kay humorously shared, one scene involving Patek Philippe watches on prosthetic penises was cut for being too on-the-nose. 
However, Smith and the production team pushed the boundaries in selecting watches that reflected the characters’ diverse personalities and evolving narratives. Rishi’s Rolex, alongside a TAG Heuer Connected, symbolized his shifting identities as he navigated different social and professional circles. Meanwhile, the significance of the date on his fake Rolex was emphasized – it’s more than just a luxury item; it’s tied to a pivotal moment in his career at Pierpoint.
Prestige Watches, Product Placement, and High-End Brands
With Industry now cemented as one of HBO’s flagship shows, the production team has enjoyed increasing support from prestigious watch brands eager to showcase their pieces. Smith notes the importance of collaboration with brands like Cartier, which has previously partnered with Succession and now makes a significant appearance in Industry. “Yasmin’s Tank Louis Cartier and Otto’s Cartier Santos Dumont tell stories of understated wealth and refinement,” Smith explains. “These watches aren’t just accessories; they reflect the characters’ sophisticated personas.”
In addition to Cartier, the Omega Speedmaster worn by Eric Tao and the Omega Seamaster sported by Adler further illustrate the characters’ unique identities. Eric’s watch, in particular, represents his explosive personality and ties to the world of exploration and achievement. Meanwhile, Lord Norton, the aristocratic old money figure, sports a Carl F. Bucherer Manero Powerreserve, signaling his deep-rooted tradition and understated wealth.
A New Generation of Characters, A New Collection of Watches
The new character of Ali El Mansour, portrayed as a younger, more dynamic figure in the world of finance, is seen sporting a range of watches throughout the season. From a Montblanc to a Rado, and another Carl F. Bucherer, his collection underscores his fluctuating status and adaptability within the cutthroat world of Industry. 
Smith’s research into the culture of finance, specifically through novels and accounts of Wall Street and banking institutions, guided her in understanding the subtle nuances of replica watch culture in the series. “The value placed on watches is universal across different financial cultures,” she explains. “Even though the show is set in London, the watch choices transcend borders, reflecting a global culture of wealth and prestige.”
